Headwaters of the Amazon Rafting Expedition, 8 Days
Big rapids, big wilderness, and big excitement are what
we discover when we raft the headwaters of the mighty Amazon River. For
experienced rafters who enjoy the rush of white water, this trip takes
you down the best selection of Class IV rivers in Ecuador. The Quijos,
Jatunyacu, Upano and Jondachi-Hollin are unforgettable rivers that offer
breathtaking cloud forest and Amazon Jungle scenery, fun hydraulics, and
of course, plenty of white water. Our unique trip also includes extended
cultural encounters with the Shuar indigenous people - the famous head-shrinkers
of the Amazon; relaxing evenings in natural alkaline-rich hotsprings;
wildlife encounters with Amazon monkeys; and a trip to the colorful indigenous
crafts market at Otavalo.
Trip highlights: " Exhilarating whitewater rafting (usually
class IV-IV+) down four unforgettable rivers
o Upano: fun hydraulics and towering canyon walls of Namangosa Gorge
o Jatunyacu: breathtaking jungle scenery and the "best one-day river
run"
o Jondachi-Hollin: the "Gem of the Andes," with complex boulder
crossings
o Quijos: traverse cloud forest and rain forest, with excellent bird watching
" Cultural encounters with Shuar Indians, the Amazon "head-shrinkers"
" Shamanic rituals and traditional activities with a Shiripuno Kichwa
community
" Wildlife encounters with the legendary capuchin monkeys of Misahuallí
" Relax in the rejuvenating natural hotsprings of Papallacta nestled
in the cloud forest
" Visit the colorful indigenous crafts market at Otavalo
" Explore wildlife and plant life in a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve
" Top-notch bilingual rafting and nature guides accompany you on
your journey
DAY 1: FLY FROM QUITO TO MACAS & RAFTING THE UPPER
UPANO
The morning is spent flying from Quito to Macas, a small town in the southern
Amazon. After arriving in Macas, we enjoy a welcome lunch and a short
trip briefing before beginning our rafting journey. We should take the
time to appreciate the city as it is today, as it was destroyed twice
by the Shuar indigenous peoples while they fought against the early Spanish
colonists. After lunch, we head to the put-in site and begin our whitewater
rafting journey down the Upano River. When we first meet the Upano, she
is a wide river alternating between verdant valleys and steep boulder
passages, with mostly class III rapids and a sprinkling of class IV rapids
that get our heartbeats racing. Not to be underestimated, slightly further
downstream the Upano morphs into a narrow but powerful channel of water
when it cuts through the Namangosa Gorge. On this first day of rafting,
we will get used to paddling as a team, while we take the time to appreciate
the stunning rainforest ecology around us. This is a truly unique rafting
and camping expedition through picturesque and untouched areas of the
Amazonian jungle. We are guaranteed to see a variety of birdlife, which
often includes numerous species of parrots and birds of prey, and we may
see more than a dozen varieties of butterflies. This section of the Amazon
is pristine primary forest, with thatched-roof hut settlements of the
Shuar indigenous peoples dotted here and there along the riverbanks. The
Shuar can often be seen washing clothes or fishing along the shores of
the upper Upano. They are famously (or infamously) known as the "shrinking
heads" peoples of the Amazon. When we make camp for the night on
the riverbanks of the Upano near Sucua, we will visit a Shuar community
nearby. They will likely talk to us about the ancient practice of head-shrinking
and how and why it was done: the Shuar believed that shrinking the heads
of enemies killed in battle was a way of preventing their victim's spirits
from seeking vengeance, and gave the warrior who possessed the shrunken
head greater powers. After our cultural exchange with the Shuar, we enjoy
dinner at our campsite and a peaceful night's sleep along the riverbanks.
(L, D)
DAYS 2 & 3: RAFTING THE UPANO RIVER IN NAMANGOSA
CANYON GORGE
After crossing under the Patuca Bridge and entering the stunning Namangosa
Canyon Gorge, the Upano River changes her mood and becomes a very fast-moving
body of water that propels our raft forward through class IV-IV+ rapid
after rapid. The riverbanks grow into towering canyon walls lush with
vegetation, and water is channeled into a narrow, boulder-choked gorge.
The Shuar call this the "Gorge of Sacred Waterfalls," and we
should be sure to ask them about the mythology surrounding the river canyon
during our community visit. Stunning views of white waterfalls are the
only thing that interrupts the green of the canyon walls. Combined with
sightings of tropical birds and colorful butterflies, we are left breathless
by the natural beauty of the canyon, as well as the thrill of the fast-moving
white water. The river's volume increases as we move downstream, while
the deep gorge creates fantastic hydraulics that we and our raft take
advantage of with the help of our experienced rafting guide. The end of
day two finds us camping at a site known as Mina, with another full day
of exhilarating rafting ahead of us. On day three, hiking trails and hidden
caves give us spaces to stop and seek wildlife along the riverbanks. We
can swim in the numerous tributary streams that feed into the Upano, offering
different temperatures and volumes of water. The afternoon of day three,
we reach our take-out site, where our vehicle is waiting for us to drive
back through the countryside. We reach Macas in the evening and spend
the fourth night of our journey here. (B, L, D both days)
DAY 4: MACAS TO TENA & VISIT SHIRIPUNO INDIGENOUS
COMMUNITY
Today we will drive along scenic jungle roads (for about 4 ½ hours)
to make our way to Tena - also known as the Whitewater Capital of Ecuador
- and recuperate from our first three days of rafting. We will need all
our strength for the adventures to come. Once in Tena, we relax and settle
into our riverfront jungle lodge at Cotococha Cabins. After lunch, we
embark on a visit to a Shiripuno Kichwa indigenous community. Here, we
learn about the Kichwa way of life, culture, traditions, and customs of
the Amazon. We can also participate in community activities, including
the creation of ceramics with indigenous motifs, preparation of Chicha
(corn beer), visits to ancient petroglyph sites, and cleansing rituals
with a local shaman. At the end of the day, we settle into our riverfront
cabañas ready for a peaceful evening surrounded by jungle sounds.
(B, L, D)
DAY 5: RAFTING THE JATUNYACU, ECUADOR'S "BEST
ONE-DAY RIVER RUN"
After enjoying breakfast in our lodge, we drive to Llanganates National
Park, which extends from the high Andes down into the Amazon basin and
is part of an area declared a Biosphere Reserve by the United Nations.
The water that collects in this area forms the Jatunyacu River, a class
III-III+ river which is considered Ecuador's best one-day rafting run.
We begin the day with a short hike through breathtaking jungle scenery
to reach naturally-formed swimming pools, where we enjoy a refreshing
swim. Afterwards, we put-in on the Jatunyacu and begin our 4 ½
hour whitewater journey down the river. A trip down the Jatunyacu offers
exhilarating white water rapids, big waves, fun holes, and high volumes
of water. The Jatunyacu is also famed for its spectacular jungle scenery,
abundant birdlife, crystal-clear water, and glimpses into indigenous communities
that live along the shores in small bamboo and wood houses. We will take
a break halfway through to enjoy lunch on the shores of the Jatunyacu
before continuing down the river, with an optional 30-minute hike later
in the afternoon through a hidden water cave along the riverbanks, where
we can often find colorful spiders spinning webs along the walls and a
crevice lined with resting bats. Once our rafts arrive at the intersection
with the Napo River, our car will be waiting for us to make the short
drive to return to the comfort of our Cotococha Cabins, where we enjoy
dinner and a relaxing evening. (B, L, D)
DAYS 6 & 7: RAFTING THE JONDACHI-HOLLIN, THE "GEM
OF THE ANDES"
After breakfast, we head to the Jondachi River, also known as the Gem
of the Andes, to begin a two-day rafting adventure down the upper and
lower sections of the Jondachi. After our arrival by car, we hike for
about 1/2 an hour to our put-in site, during which we have a chance to
appreciate the beauty of the rainforest and river ecology around us. Once
we reach the riverbanks, there is also the option of hiking a short distance
to a lagoon filled by a cold, crystal-clear waterfall, where we take a
dip in the refreshing waters - and the more adventurous of us explore
numerous small caves and rock ledges along the face of the waterfall.
Once we return to the river, our rafting adventure begins. Our first day
on the Jondachi, we raft the upper section of the river, a class IV-V
steep creek that attracts expert kayakers from around the world to challenge
its continuous rapids channeled through sculpted, granite boulders. Ecuador
Adventure is one of only two companies in Ecuador to offer rafting trips
down the Jondachi, and it is the only one that offers multiple-day Jondachi
trips. Our experienced guides lead us through the steep creek and choose
the safest and most fun routes. At times, the river is highly technical
and demands our utmost attention. At other times, it is wider and allows
us time to appreciate the rainforest scenery around us. The Jondachi winds
through some of the most remote and pristine sections of jungle found
in Ecuador. The high-rising canyon walls that frame the river are covered
in verdant green and brightly-colored flowering plants. Small, rickety
wooden foot bridges cross the canyon, suspended high above the lapping
waves, and remind us of simpler ways of life that most of us from traffic-congested
cities have never experienced. In the afternoon of the first day, we make
camp along the riverbanks and spend the night under a sky so clear we
can see the eyelashes on the face in the moon. The morning of our second
day, we put-in and raft down the lower section of the Jondachi. This part
of the river is more tranquil than the upper section, with mostly class
III-IV rapids. But not to be underestimated is the "Waffle Maker"
rapid: the water pulls us in, churns our raft about, and then spits us
out, making us feel as if we've just been clamped down on by the water
and pressed into - well, a waffle. Later on, the Jondachi joins with the
Hollin River and becomes wider and more peaceful shortly before we reach
our take-out near the town of Misahuallí. The town is famous for
its capuchin monkeys, who offer us a unique wildlife encounter. These
intelligent animals love interacting with humans - just be wary that they
don't try to steel your beer and drink it, one of their favorite pastimes.
After some excellent animal photo-ops, we drive to Cotococha Cabins and
spend the evening here dining and relaxing. (B, L, D both days)
DAY 8: RAFTING THE QUIJOS & PAPALLACTA HOT SPRINGS
In the morning, we drive eastward for an hour or so and gain altitude
before we reach our put-in on the Quijos River, located at 7,500 feet
(2,300 meters) above sea level within Sumaco National Park. This incredibly
biodiverse area was declared a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 2000. One
of the few ways to explore the remote cloud forest and jungle regions
contained within the Gran Sumaco Reserve is by river. The Quijos is our
passageway through this uncharted territory, as we follow its curves through
the eastern foothills of the Andes with a seemingly endless series of
Class IV and IV+ rapids that leave us breathless. We begin our journey
in a virtually unexplored and pristine cloud forest that gradually melds
into rainforest. Because it crosses through two different ecosystems,
the Quijos' river banks hold the greatest diversity of bird life of any
of the rivers we visit. While we aren't paddling furiously to get through
the next class IV rapid, we take the time to enjoy the sights of rare
bird species such as the red-crested cock-of-the-rock, brilliant green
quetzals, and multi-colored Inca jays. When we take a break to enjoy lunch
on the riverbanks, we will have a chance to hunt for more wildlife species
and appreciate the diversity of plant life along the shore. In the afternoon,
we reach our put-out site where our car is waiting for us to drive to
the relaxing natural hotsprings at Papallacta. Here, while nestled in
fantastic cloud forest scenery, we submerge our tired muscles in the soothing
alkaline-rich waters. Spa services such as massages, aromatherapy, and
other optional treatments can be arranged in advance. Dinner and accommodations
at Papallacta Hotsprings Spa and Resort. (B, L, D)
DAY 9: PAPALLACTA HOT SPRINGS & OTAVALO INDIGENOUS
MARKET
In the morning, we enjoy another rejuvenating dip in the soothing hotsprings
of Papallacta. The locals believe that the mineral waters, heated naturally
by geothermal activity, have special healing properties. You're sure to
become a believer in their powers as well. Later in the morning, we depart
Papallacta and head to Otavalo, the Andean town famous for its colorful
indigenous crafts market. Here, local indigenous artisans and craftsmen
sell their handmade wares, including textiles, leather goods, jewelry,
and much more. Ecuador's vibrant indigenous culture and heritage is also
visible in the foods sold by street-side vendors and in the music being
played by local Andean artists. We spend the rest of the afternoon exploring
Otavalo, where we enjoy lunch before departing for Quito in the afternoon.
(B, L)
2011 price per person in US$: $2645 for 2 people,
$1949 for 3, $1599 for 4, $1478 for 5-9, $1270 for 10+ 2012 price per person in US$: $2777 for 2 people, $2047 for 3,
$1679 for 4, $1551 for 5-9, $1334 for 10+
INCLUDED: Private ground transportation (with driver);
all camping gear, including sleeping bags, kitchen, social and bathroom
tents; all meals as described; all rafting and safety equipment; overnight
jungle lodge accommodations; and professional certified bilingual rafting
and nature guide(s).
NOT INCLUDED: Flight Quito-Macas; hotel and restaurant
beverages, tips, or gratuities; and guide tips.
**PLEASE NOTE** This itinerary is subject to change due
to weather conditions and river water levels. Security is always our main
concern. Due to fast flooding during rains or other sudden changes in
water levels, we are always prepared to change or cancel our river itinerary.
Possible alternative itineraries include: 2 days of rafting on the Quijos
River; 1 day of rafting on the Cosanga River; or 1 day of rafting on the
Misahuallí River.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION
TRAVEL TIME: 12 hours by bus or 1-hour flight, Quito to Macas
RAFTING TIME: 5-7 hours daily, depending on water level
SEASON: November to March
ALTITUDE: 1,600 to 7,500 feet (500 to 2,300 meters)
AVERAGE TEMPERATURE - CLOUD FOREST: DAY 60-86ºF / 16-30ºC
AVERAGE TEMPERATURE - AMAZON: DAY 68-95ºF / 20-35ºC, NIGHT 64-71ºF
/ 18-22ºC
SUGGESTED ITEMS TO PACK: water sandals, flashlight, sunblock, bathing
suit, and mosquito repellent.
WHITEWATER CLASSIFICATION: Class I - easy, Class II - novice, Class III
- intermediate, Class IV - advanced, Class V - expert
Equipment
During the camping portions of the trip, we use the following equipment:
a portable toilet, solar showers, biodegradable soap, Eureka & Northface
tents, Prijon expedition kayaks, lifejackets, dry bags, a dugout canoe
with and without outboard motor, and rubber (Wellington) boots.
Safety
Guides are WFR (Wilderness First Responder) certified. We use a complete
first aid kid, including an anti-snakebite suction cup. We use GPS equipment
for exact positioning, as well as a satellite phone for emergency communications.
Our contingency plan includes a helicopter emergency evacuation service
(cost is additional, but could be reimbursed by your travelers' or health
insurance).
About the food
The majority of the food is brought in from Quito, including drinking
water. During the trip, we offer gourmet and local foods freshly cooked
by our staff. Breakfast includes granola, fresh fruit, whole wheat bread,
fresh coffee or tea, cereal, marmalade, pancakes or French toast, yogurt,
and eggs of your choice. Box & picnic lunches include a variety of
sandwiches, fruits, cheeses, dried fruits, juices, and fresh vegetables.
Dinner includes fresh soups, pastas, local dishes, rice, beans, plantains,
yucca, meats, fish, mashed potatoes, fresh salads and vegetables, complemented
with wine, water, and/or juice.
About this Tour
Campsites may vary, based on weather conditions. We recycle and transport
out all non-organic garbage. Although we attempt to stick to the itinerary,
changes may occur due to weather and river conditions, health, or other
variables. Alternate river runs are available and may be substituted for
those on the itinerary due to river water levels. Being flexible will
allow you to get the most from your experience.