In 2025, the lodge only received 653 guests, probably because it requires an extra flight to get there from Manaus, but also because the lodge’s management maintains strict control over annual visitor numbers. The goal is to ensure that tourism remains within safe limits, preventing negative environmental or social impacts within the reserve. So it receives a lot less tourist traffic than most other lodges.

And unlike many other lodges, it is a project built collectively. Over more than 20 years, it has served as a space for continuous learning about what it truly means to develop community based tourism in the Amazon because it is a co management model shared by the communities of the Mamirauá Sector and the Mamirauá Institute for Sustainable Development. This partnership ensures that the lodge operates in a way that is both economically and environmentally sustainable, while remaining aligned with the conservation research and management programs carried out within the reserve.

The Uakari Lodge’s community based tourism model generates benefits that extend far beyond the visitor experience, directly strengthening both the economy and social organization of the reserve’s communities. In 2025 more than 90 community members provided services directly at the lodge, working as guides, housekeepers, cooks, carpenters, maintenance staff and kitchen assistants, while also taking on supervisory and local management roles within the lodge. In addition to service provision, the lodge also supports the local economy by purchasing products and supplies directly from surrounding communities, generating additional income and diversifying household livelihoods. And the Socio Environmental Fee, included in each guest’s stay, generates funds that are distributed among the communities through a point based system created and managed by the communities themselves. The system encourages participation in conservation activities, such as lake monitoring, and ensures that the funds are invested in projects that benefit the collective.

So it is a model that shows it is possible to bring together tourism, conservation and social development within a single project. But it also incorporates research, as there are always scientists conducting research in the reserve and every guest will get to interact with researchers in some way, including getting a presentation and,  depending on the time of the year, a field experience with them so that guests can see what it is like to be a scientist in the Amazon. That is not an experience that most other lodges can offer.

I remember years ago going on a backpacking trip in Chachapoyas led by Dr. Peter Lerche. At the time, he was in charge of investigating and documenting new archeological sites that were reported to him by locals (locals knew about sites for years, but only reported them when they found out that others might be interested in them). As we were walking, he would point out the tops of mountains where there were unexplored ruins. Since there were no roads to those places, he had to hike to them and he just didn't have time to get to all of them. Not long after that trip, I was sending a group to that area and my local operator said that a new "lost city" had been discovered and they were wondering if my group would like to visit it. Of course they said yes and for years they told me that it was the highlight of their trip because they felt like they were among the first to see it.  This was in the area called Gran Vilaya, a complex of many archaeological remains and ruins, spread over a wide area that was discovered in 1985.

Then in 1996, 200 mummies were found in a cave at Laguna de Los Condores. A National Geographic team wanted to do a documentary about the find, but they decided to go with a rogue archeologist, and the locals refused to help them to get there, so their quest was unsuccessful. But the Discovery Channel enlisted the aid of a legitimate group and they were able to get there to document the place. Later a museum was built in Leymebamba to house the mummies. And the National Geographic team was able to go after contracting with more respectable people.

The immense Gocta waterfall was "discovered" by a foreigner in 2002 and the Yumbilla waterfall was "discovered" in 2007, though locals had known about them for years. These are among the highest waterfalls in the world.

For years the huge mountaintop citadel of Kuelap has been the major attraction of the Chachapoyas region. Construction of it started in about 800 A.D. and since 1995, the Peruvian government has been touting it as "the Machu Picchu of the North", but it has never really caught on. Maybe that is partly due to the lack of flights to Chachapoyas. We had to fly in a military cargo plane when we went, sitting along both sides of the plane while cargo was stored in the middle of the plane.  Commercial flights would not go there because the airport did not have a radar system. The government built an airport in Jaen, which is a few hours away, but that is not operating any more. There is a small local airline (Atsa Airlines) that is flying daily to Chachapoyas now. Otherwise, you can take a long bus ride from Chiclayo or Cajamarca to get to Chachapoyas.

But the Southern Carretera Austral is still relatively unknown. Places like Cerro Castillo offer the same raw Patagonian intensity: dramatic trekking, sweeping landscapes, the feeling of being somewhere the crowds haven't found yet. For people who want that Patagonia feeling without the lines, this is the answer.

If you want even more solitude, you can skip the peak summer season because autumn there (March-May) is genuinely one of the most beautiful seasons. The lenga forests turn deep red and gold. The light softens. The roads quiet down. Lodges that are fully booked in January have availability and the same guides, the same landscapes, but a fraction of the crowd. 

For a number of years a classic road trip was the main way to visit the area because there was not much infrastructure The road trip is great, but now it is not the only way. You can base yourself in a well-located lodge or estancia and explore the surroundings through guided excursions, with no driving required. This opens the route to a much wider variety of travelers - couples, older travelers, anyone who wants immersion without the stress of renting a car and making their way through the rugged landscape.

The Carretera Austral is a long piece of territory, as is evidenced by the sample 12 day self-drive itinerary we have on our website. But don't be fooled into thinking that the northern and southern sections are the same -  they're not even close. The north is lush, dense, green with rivers, lakes, and temperate rainforest while in the south it shifts into open steppe, sharp peaks and glacial lagoons. Two completely different landscapes, two completely different moods. So people who've done one section have every reason to come back for the other, equally spectacular, but in a different way.
 
As was mentioned, in the past, lodging options were pretty limited along the way. But now, thoughtfully designed lodges and authentic working estancias have developed to quietly transform the accommodation landscape along this route so that people can be staying somewhere genuinely special, with service that matches. You won't have to rough it, unless you want to.  ​

Are you one of those who feels that family wildlife tours feel rushed or crowded? Here are a few thoughts about how to choose small-group, well-paced trip designs using clear group-size, daily schedule, and encounter-quality criteria.

Since we specialize in South America, I will focus on family wildlife tours there, though some of these ideas can also pertain to tours in Africa and other places.

You're probably aware that the more people there are, the more noise and movement there will be and thus, probably less wildlife will be seen. Most tour descriptions will say what the maximum group size is, but you also have to consider if there will be other tour groups at the same place at the same time. At some locations, guides are in contact with each other, so if they spot a prized animal, they will let the other guides know and they will bring their groups over. You've probably heard stories about vehicles in Africa completely surrounding a family of lions or something like that. So you'll want to try to avoid scenarios like that. We work with operators that keep groups small and separate from other groups. Also, we work with a number of remote lodges that are away from the high traffic areas where most people go to because they are convenient, such as Uakari, Tambopata Research Center , Calanoa and Napo Wildlife Center in the Amazon and Barra Mansa in the Pantanal

Also, in cases such as when a guide is using a scope to let people view a distant bird or other animal, if there is a large group, it will take a while to let everyone look through the scope. If the schedule is tight because visiting a lot of different areas is scheduled, then it will feel like you are rushing to get to all of the places. It's better to go with a company that has a more relaxed and flexible schedule because, if you're seeing some really interesting at one site, you might not want to have to rush off to the next site because you're supposed to be there at a certain time. One wildlife viewing highlight is more memorable than several ordinary encounters.

First of all, there is no road that goes directly from lodges in the north to the south or vice versa. There is a road that goes from Cuiaba (gateway to northern lodges) to Campo Grande (gateway to southern lodges), but it takes maybe 10 hours to drive that distance and then lodges are 2 hours or more from each of those gateways.

There are occasional small cruise boats that go from Corumba to Porto Jofre over a period of several days, but they are not very frequent and all nights are spent on the boat.

If you can afford it, you can charter a flight on a small plane from Cuiaba or Porto Jofre to a few lodges in the south that have airstrips, or vice versa.

But we already offer lodge to lodge tours to lodges in slightly different ecosystems in each area, so that you can see a wider variety of wildlife species.

In the north, we can offer a tour to 2 lodges in different areas along the Transpantaneira Highway, or, if you want to go all the way to Porto Jofre to stand your best chance of seeing jaguars, we can offer a 2 or 3 lodge tour.

​In the South, we recently added a tour to 2 different small lodges in remote areas. As is mentioned on that page, we can change one of the lodges to one that is closer to Campo Grande to make it more affordable and/or more convenient if you want to include time in Bonito.

​November is normally the start of the Antarctic season, and is a month full of new life. This is mating and brooding season for seals and penguins, and locations such as South Georgia are vibrant and dynamic. Varied weather and light conditions make November a dramatic start to the expedition calendar, and superb for photographers.

In December, temperatures rise, avenues for exploration open up, and wildlife becomes increasingly active. Bird colonies, penguin rookeries, and basking seals are just some of the highlights you can expect. More of the Peninsula opens up, bringing fresh activities - summer is here!

I suppose there are 2 main factors that can determine when is the best time to visit the Galapagos Islands - the weather and what wildlife you will see

If you are concerned about what the weather will be like, the archipelago is governed by two distinct seasons. While both offer exceptional wildlife encounters, the “vibe” of your trip will change depending on when you go.

The warm season is considered to be from December through May. The sky is a brilliant, piercing blue, punctuated by occasional, dramatic afternoon rain showers that keep the islands lush and emerald green. During this period, the air temperature hovers between 25°C and 30°C, and the water is at its warmest and clearest. So this is the best time to visit Galapagos if your priority is comfort and relaxation. The seas are at their calmest, making for smooth navigation between islands—a crucial factor for those who prefer a steady deck. Snorkeling during these months is an effortless joy, requiring no wetsuit as you glide over coral reefs teeming with colorful tropical fish and playful marine iguanas.

June through November is considered the cool season. That is when the Humboldt Current arrives from the south, it brings nutrient-rich, cooler waters. This is when a misty, ethereal fog often blankets the highlands, creating a mysterious and atmospheric backdrop for photography.
While the water temperatures dip to between 20°C and 23°C, the biological payoff is immense. The nutrient surge triggers a massive explosion of marine life. So this is the best time for a Galapagos cruise if you are an avid snorkeler and it is the only time of year when you can reliably encounter whale sharks near the northern islands and watch the sea lion colonies burst into life with newborn pups.
 
If seeing wildlife is more of a concern for you, then here is a month by month breakdown about what you might expect:
 
January is when the islands are at their most vibrant. The land iguanas on Isabela Island begin their mating rituals, appearing like miniature dragons amidst the greening vegetation. For travelers, January offers the perfect balance of warm weather and the exciting start of the green sea turtle nesting season. It is a time of renewal, where every shore excursion feels like stepping into a brand-new world.

February is arguably the best month for those who love the water because the sea is exceptionally calm and the clarity is superb. On islands like Santa Cruz and Española, marine iguanas become strikingly colorful—donning shades of red and green to attract mates. It is a visual feast that is best enjoyed during a guided coastal walk.

March is when the “wet” season is in full swing, but the rains are short-lived and serve only to cool the air. This is a magnificent time for birdwatchers. Frigatebirds, with their iconic red throat pouches, begin their elaborate displays. 

April marks the return of the Waved Albatross to Española Island. These majestic birds, which spend most of their lives at sea, arrive to perform their clattering, sword-fight-like courtship dance. To witness this rare spectacle in person is a privilege few travelers ever experience, making April a high-demand month for cruises.​

May starts the transition toward the cooler season and offers the best of both worlds. The water is still warm, but the breezes are beginning to freshen. This is the peak of the Blue-footed Booby’s courtship dance. Their rhythmic “high-stepping” is both comical and captivating, providing endless entertainment during island landings.

​June sees the arrival of the trade winds and the nutrient-rich currents. The islands begin to shift from green to a more volcanic grey and brown, but the sea comes alive. This is the start of the whale shark season in the far north and you need to be on a cruise to get there.

July is when the waters around Isabela and Fernandina islands become a hive of activity. This is the best time to spot the Galapagos Penguin and the Flightless Cormorant. The cooler water means these birds are highly active, hunting for fish right alongside snorkelers. The weather is invigorated and fresh, perfect for long hikes across the dramatic lava fields.

August is when to come if you are looking for “cute” wildlife. This is the peak of the sea lion pupping season. The beaches are transformed into nurseries where curious pups often approach travelers (under the watchful eye of their mothers). You can sense the energy on the islands is and the cooler air makes the uphill treks to volcanic viewpoints incredibly pleasant.

September is the heart of the “Garúa” season when the mist creates a soft, diffused light that professional photographers crave. The marine life is at its most concentrated so you might find yourself snorkeling in a “soup” of tropical fish, sea turtles, and playful penguins. It is the most “wild” the Galapagos ever feels and is when the sea is normally the most turbulent.​

October is a fantastic time to observe lava herons nesting. The islands feel quiet and exclusive during this time, allowing for an even more intimate connection with the environment.

November is when the water begins to warm up again, but the marine abundance of the cool season remains. Sea lion pups are now old enough to be extremely playful in the water, making for some of the best snorkeling encounters of the year. It is a month of high activity.

December brings the return of the clear blue skies. The giant tortoises begin their nesting season, and the islands prepare for the tropical bloom once again. ​

​It’s not just where you go, but how you feel: Travelers across generations are placing emotional fulfillment over ticking off famous sites. Sixty-one percent say they choose trips based on experiences over destinations.
The desire to feel something: Awe, wonder, joy, connection are outpacing the urge to simply “see” something.
The power of connection and belonging: The study reveals that quality time with loved ones and joyful shared memories are the strongest contributors to happiness when travelling. 
Purpose-driven travel and understanding your place in the world: Seventy-nine percent of travelers surveyed say travel makes them more understanding and empathetic of other cultures and 65 percent say being part of a community is important to them, while 68 percent say it helps them better understand themselves and their purpose.
Ethical travel is also a growing priority: Eighty percent say they are thoughtful about who they travel with and their ethics, and 74 percent avoid experiences that don’t support the ethical treatment of animals. Eight two percent say that it’s important to them to avoid overcrowded destinations and opt for more off-the-beaten track options or off-peak times of year.
Decompressing, disconnecting and finding wonder: In an always-on world, the results show travelers are craving time to pause and breathe. 
But it’s not just rest they’re seeking: 43 percent say they want to be active and explore on holiday, and 37 percent want to feel a sense of wonder. Many find that happiness in open, untamed landscapes, with 36 percent of respondents putting very remote destinations in their top 3 places they feel happiest and 35 percent choosing mountain environments. 
Not just a break, but a breakthrough: 37 percent of travelers surveyed are seeking a trip that offers the notion of something “new” and “different” to their everyday lives, along with the desire to learn about how people in other parts of the world live. Thirty-nine percent said they wanted a trip to help them feel alive and energized.
Going local: Modern travelers want to experience life like a local, not a visitor. Sixty-one percent prefer trips that allow them to live like a local and 85 percent value staying and eating in locally owned places—supporting communities while getting closer to the heart of a destination. Sustainability is front of mind too: 62 percent actively consider reducing their carbon footprint through rail or public transport.

Shortly after, I met with some local Brazilian operators at a conference for South American travel and found one that I thought was interesting, so I went to their office in Rio to meet with the directors. When I walked into their office, I brought the magazine and said "these are the kind of things that I want to try to sell". They just smiled and said that they had helped to put that magazine together, so they knew the areas very well.

Then in 2000, I went to the 2nd annual trade show in Rio to promote tourism to Brazil. I was a little leery because I met an agent who had gone to the first one and she said that nobody at the booths spoke English, so she just went around and picked up brochures and was through in a half hour. Luckily, the Brazilian companies learned their lesson and so for the 2nd show, they all had at least 1 English-speaker at their booth and so I was able to learn a lot more from them. I found out about Bonito, which had only started promoting itself as an ecotourism destination in 1995 and has been voted the top ecotourism destination many times by Brazilians.

A few years later, I attended a trade show for Brazilian adventure and ecotour operators. While listening to presentations about fantastic places like Chapada dos Veadeiros, Chapada Diamantina, Lencois Marenhenses and Serra da Capivara, I mentioned to the presenters that if they would produce videos about their areas, they would be more compelling for prospective visitors than just a couple of photos on their website. Luckily, technology has advanced and more and more videos about these places are out there now.

Now I've been to Rio, Sao Paulo, Salvador, Recife, Fortaleza, Fernando de Noronha, Amazon, Bonito, north and south Pantanal, Chapada dos Guimaraes, Buzios, Paraty, Ilha Grande, Ouro Preto and Iguassu Falls.  So I've got a pretty good idea about what Brazil has to offer. Jorge has also been in the business for many years and, though his specialty has been Chile and Argentina (having been the U.S. sales rep for several companies from there), he has visited many places in all of the South American countries, so is very familiar with what they have to offer. He is especially interested in indigenous cultures.